South America, Part 2

I never realized traveling full time would keep me so busy! Here I was, fully intending to navigate myself from place to place, meet new people, explore unknown places, capture beautiful photos, eat amazing cuisine, document, and still have time to be introspective and write my future prize-winning, jaw-dropping literary magnum opus. While I stay positive about trying to balance all these grand intentions, chances are they each will take their turn being a priority and then silently sitting on the sidelines. Ebb and flow.

The second part of my South American journey contained so many layers, including fascinating Incan history, spiritual experiences, emotions of excitement, awe, disdain, empathy, joy… and the list goes on. What beautiful countries, all different and distinct. Same as the people. I was a large behemoth of a woman traipsing around this part of the world, and it is a different experience when you stand out so distinctly. What a moving experience.

Peru
My experience began in a city that sprawls across the coast, screaming "I'm here!" at the top of its lungs. Horns honking, cars angrily swerving, I made my way around Lima with taxis who have no meters, and one taxi driver who couldn't stay awake at each stop. Thank goodness for the horns. The redeeming quality of this place was the food! Ceviche, sushi, seafood, and unique creations on every corner. Eating my way through the city helped my mood and my understanding of Peruvian cuisine. Once I was outside in the country and mountains, Peru began to whisper, and I found pure beauty. So much history, and spiritual references are found everywhere. Even the 4,000+ meter elevation didn't affect my mood, though huffing and puffing my way up stairs or inclines was the norm. Sipping on coca tea and keeping hydrated and rested helped me battle the physical effects of the height. Making my way through Cusco, the Sacred Valley, Ollantaytambo, Aguas Calientes, Machu Picchu, and Puno to Lake Titicaca was absolutely epic.

Lovers Beach, a serene spot with tile art and love poems in the Miraflores neighborhood on the ocean.

Work it! Selling goods high above the city of Cusco amidst the beautiful cityscape. 

The higher up you live, the less taxes you pay. The less finished your home is, the less taxes you pay. Hmm...

School children in the Sacred Valley. There is always a naughty one… can you spot him?

At a women's weaving co-op, funded by the Planeterra project.

Incan ruins everywhere.

Early in the morning, the llamas descend at Machu Picchu.

Just me, no tourists, no noise, a once-in-a-lifetime moment here.

Island on Lake Titicaca, where men weave, there is solar paneling on the homes, but no donkeys or horses to help their labor. All traditional methods and clothing. Keeping it real.

Bolivia
A major bout of travel sickness fell upon me when I took the bus into La Paz. A monstrous city, settled in a large bowl, surrounded by desert peaks and mountains, I was able to see a few sites and also traveled just outside to Valley of the Moon. Although the air was hard to breathe due to fumes and pollution, I rode above it all in the cool new sky transit system. Great views, and so easy to navigate! Driving through the desert, the land reminded me of parts of Montana state (though much more rocky), where I grew up. So many environments to experience… Potosi, a silver mining town, the Uyuni salt flats, and finally, the political capital of Sucre, the "white city". There is a distinct meshing of traditional with the modern, and there are 65 indigenous groups represented in this small country. Being the poorest country in South America, living there has its challenges. In 3 years, they will begin excavating the salt flats for lithium, in hopes of creating income (making the wealthy even wealthier, most likely!?). I am so thankful I got to see it before changes are underway.

"Why is this called Valley of the Moon?" I asked the not-so-knowledgeable or insightful tour guide, to try to encourage more conversation. "Because it looks like the moon," he stated.

In La Paz, they built 3 sky tram lines, not for tourists, but the public. 2 were open, 1 was still being tested. It can save a 3 hour walk for locals traveling to and from work who live high on the steep hills!

Staying at a salt structure near the Uyuni salt flats.

Cool train graveyard!

Inca Island in the Uyuni salt flats. Some of these cacti are 650 or more years old!

Behind the scenes of a local market in Sucre.

Chile
Arriving at San Pedro de Atacama, I was delighted to find one of my good friends in the street, literally! She was chaperoning her students for the week on a field trip, and they were staying at a hostel across from mine. The world is quite a small place, and nothing makes travel better than seeing a warm, beautiful face of a beloved friend! This desert is the driest in the world, and I had a chance to tour the marvelous Valley of the Moon and surrounding area, duck through dark caves in the rock faces (hello, claustrophobia and irreversible grumpiness!), and feel the wind whip through my body on the open plain. We even caught a gorgeous purple sunset from a cliff point and spent a night under the vast starry sky at a rooftop observatory! Once in Santiago, wine tours began and being back in the city, diverse foods and options presented themselves again. My Spanish practice took a hit though, because Chilean Spanish was incredibly fast and so difficult to understand. I tried my best, smiled a lot, and nodded, occasionally topping it off by a reassuring "Si, si!". I ended my stay there with a day trip to Valparaiso and a glorious long weekend at the beach in Maitencillo, relaxing, reading, talking, and jewelry-buying. Sunburned and content, I returned to Zurich to shed my skin, drink delicious water from the tap, and take a good long rest!

Sauntering through the desert of San Pedro de Atacama.

Central area of Santiago.

Tasting some grape goodness at Concha y Toro vineyard outside Santiago.

Such gorgeous street art decorates walls and buildings in Valparaiso. Writers and artists are known for living and working here, and you can feel their muses in the air.

All to ourselves in Maintencillo! Perfect end to a beautiful trip!

Many of my photos for Part 2 can be found at South America, Part 2